How the Portuguese formed Madras

The Luz Church, also called Kattu Koil, takes its Indian title from the truth that it was as soon as in a dense forest. It nonetheless retains its baroque structure.  | Photo Credit: The Hindu Archives

For over 300 years, i.e, between the Chola period of prosperity and the glory years of Vijayanagar, the Madras area appears to not have had many guests from abroad. But by the sixteenth Century, the Portuguese have been right here and have been the primary among the many vital colonial presences. While there is no such thing as a doubt that it was commerce that introduced them to India, my competition is that it was the sturdy hyperlink with the legend of St. Thomas that drew them to Mylapore. Under them, the realm proved a blueprint for colonial forts — a white city by the ocean and a black one to the west. They known as it San Thome, after the saint who introduced them right here.

The Portuguese have been as impressed by evangelisation as they have been by conquest, and so each flourished. There have been as many as seven church buildings inside the fort, and 4 outdoors of it. Today, among the many former, now we have the San Thome basilica (a lot reconstructed and bearing no hint of Portuguese structure) and the Rosary Church as two survivors, with a 3rd, St. Rita’s now a part of the San Thome Matriculation School. Its façade stays unchanged. Surprisingly, all 4 church buildings outdoors the fort survived — St. Lazarus, Madre de Deus, Descanso, and Luz. Among these, the Luz Church, also called Kattu Koil, takes its Indian title from the truth that it was as soon as in a dense forest. It nonetheless retains its baroque structure.

St Lazarus in R.A. Puram is without doubt one of the church buildings constructed by the Portuguese that also stands. | Photo Credit: The Hindu Archives

The flourishing of Christianity in San Thome meant Mylapore’s historic Kapaleeshwarar Temple waned and was ultimately shifted. Certainly, relics of a temple emerged for lengthy from the place the basilica stands at this time. That temples in San Thome went by means of a tough patch is clear from an enchantment made by the locals to Aliya Rama Raya, the highly effective son-in-law of Krishna Deva Raya. But he took no motion — the Vijayanagar rulers wanted the Portuguese for his or her provide of firearms and horses.

The Portuguese have been as impressed by evangelisation as they have been by conquest, and so each flourished. A view of the San Thome Cathedral Basilica Church in 1967. | Photo Credit: The Hindu Archives

The Portuguese have been by no means nice directors and San Thome quickly descended into chaos, thereby making the neighbouring Fort St. George extra engaging to locals. The Dutch and the Golconda Sultanate mixed to cut back San Thome within the late seventeenth Century after which the French too got here in. Finally, it was the English, who had accomplished nothing however watch until then, who gained the higher hand. By the 1750s, San Thome was with them, they usually made fast work of demolishing its partitions. What is mysterious is the best way during which its harbour, historic Shah Bandar, vanished with no hint.

Architecture and road names

There have been until just lately loads of Portuguese-style homes within the San Thome space. Street names nonetheless stay — Nimmo, Lynna Pereira (he was a purveyor of spirits), and DeMonte — all commemorate the Portuguese. And there are nonetheless many instructional establishments right here that owe their existence to the Catholic Church and its many denominations.

A legend of a mysterious mild that guided storm-tossed sailors to security impressed the Portuguese to construct a church right here, it was given the Portuguese phrase for mild — Luz — as its title, and people within the Mylapore space no less than have to be utilizing it every day with out as soon as pausing to consider the way it grew to become native coin. And Descanso, that means ‘relaxation’, is Ilaipparral in Tamil. The church grew to become Ilaippatriya Mada Kovil (St. Mary’s Road), which grew to become Ellapatha Mada Kovil.

We nonetheless have some phrases that we owe to the Portuguese. Among these, istri for the act of urgent garments and peepa for barrel are however two. The former is from the Portuguese estirar, that means to stretch, whereas the latter is from pipes (pronounced peeps) — barrels that transported wine.

However, there was additionally a darkish aspect to the Portuguese presence in Madras — they kidnapped locals and offered them off as slaves to the plantations internationally.

Published – August 22, 2025 06:00 am IST

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