Checkmate in Chennai: This park is a haven for chess players

Last week, one of the most exciting stories in the sports pages of the newspaper was Grandmaster R Vaishali’s triumph at the Candidates Tournament in Pegeia, Cyprus, on April 15. The Chennai-based chess player became the first Indian woman to win this prestigious event which was established in 1952. With this landmark victory, Vaishali is now set to become only the second Indian woman to compete in the World Championship — an accomplishment that is no mean feat.

Would it be a stretch to say that the city she is from has played an integral role in her life? Not really, considering that of the 83 grandmasters in India, 29 are from Tamil Nadu. From this subset, it is reported that 15 are from one Chennai school, Velammal Vidyalaya in Mogappair — Vaishali’s alma mater.

Not too far from this institution is Anna Nagar Tower Park, an old landmark in the city’s ever-growing skyscape. At this location, on the steps along the park’s little lake, are at least 50 strangers sharing 25 chess boards, moving their rooks, knights, pawns, and queens, with easy focus and concentration. These are friendly matches, after all. On a few boards though, friends cosplaying arch rivals, play each other with deft ruthlessness. A war is afoot.

The sight alone is inviting, communicating to strangers that any free board is ready for play.

Your move

Over three years, Chennai Chess Club’s chess at the park initiative has helped build friendships, let strangers unwind, and has allowed for a deeper understanding of chess moves, all whilst taking in Anna Nagar’s legato-esque breeze. Once a month, in the third week, the park transforms into an intellectual third space akin to places like Washington Square Park, Moscow, Lima, and Bandra’s Carter Road where chess is played in public, and the games are open to all.

“We began Chennai Chess Club just as the pandemic blockade was lifting back in March 2023. Although there was a chess-craze during the COVID lockdown, the sport was played in isolation on sites like Chess.Com and lichess.com. Using Reddit, Twitter, Instagram and WhatsApp, we decided to spread the word and ask people to come and play over-the-board chess. We thought that it would be a good idea to explore the social side of the sport,” says Paul Vannan K, one of the two founders of this free chess club.

Varun K, the other founder, says that they first organised meet-ups at cafes every Sunday. “Our first meeting had 12 people. The participants have been growing ever since,” he says.

About 20 years ago, a Chess Square was built when Sundaram Finance took charge of Nageswara Rao Park as its CSR project. Besides a central chess square where mic-less kutcheris were held, there were some cement stools and round tables with inlaid chess squares. Here, citizens used to play and chat too. The culture however, died over the years and the park is now undergoing renovation.

One of Chennai Chess Club’s most heartening results is the fact that there are about eight volunteers with the organisation who oversee the games at the park. “Everyone joined out of curiosity and a need to play the game. Now, we are all friends,” says Paul.

Sudarshan R, a class XI student and the son of a chess coach, says that he is most delighted to learn in an atmosphere that is easy-going. “The air at a chess tournament is full of tension. It is serious. There is little to no space for conversation, making it a difficult space to learn. Here though, one can finish a game and analyse the board. Those who win, teach. Those who lose, learn,” he says.

Varun, who has been playing chess since he was in class III, says that Chennai’s chess scene has transformed dramatically. Back when he was playing, people would travel for a few tournaments across the State. Today, there is more than one competitive event every week. It has also become easier to learn the game of chess. “Online forums have made it remarkably easy to learn chess. All one needs is practice. This too has led to a rise in the number of chess players in Chennai,” he says.

All of these causes are besides the obvious influences who exist in the State including Viswanathan Anand, Gukesh Dommaraju, and R Praggnanandhaa. “They seem like they could be our neighbours. Knowing that makes chess an easy dream to pursue,” Paul says, adding that great play requires hard work.

Paul says that there is a definite Goofy Gen effect on young, new players who are taking to the sport in Tamil Nadu. “He [Instagram influencer Suthershun Asokan] is a fantastic player. Many before him have made chess content. Yet, he has found a fantastic way to reach the non-chess crowd, causing a great rise in an interest towards the game,” he says.

A break

Those who are experienced players also find some solace from their routines at the park. Swetha R who is back on the steps after a year’s maternity break, says that for one and a half years, life was all-consuming. “Through it all though, chess has remained consistent. I learnt to play from my grandfather when I was young. It keeps me connected to him too. Something about sitting in front of the board,” she says, trailing off.

Has she observed a change in the gender gap in the last three years? “In the beginning, there weren’t many women, but there has been a slow rise in the last few years,” she says.

Just as we wrap up, A Venkatesh and his friend R Deepa Karthika first-timers at the meet, can be seen bantering over the board. “I used to play well in school but it has been years since I touched a board. It feels exciting to play even though we aren’t great now. I feel like I am nostalgic for school now,” Deepa says.

As the sun sets, the pieces killed off the board are laid back neatly in the bags. The green and white chess boards are rolled up and packed. Today’s quota of 64 squares is done. Until next month.

For details, follow @chennaichessclub on Instagram.